On May 18, 2025, British climber Kenton Cool reached the summit of Mount Everest for the 19th time, setting a new record for the most ascents of the world’s highest peak by a non-Sherpa climber.
A Historic Achievement
Kenton Cool, 51, from southwest England, first summited Everest in 2004 and has since made nearly annual ascents, missing only the years 2014, 2015, and 2020 due to avalanches and the COVID-19 pandemic. His latest climb was accomplished via the Southeast Ridge route, accompanied by Nepali Sherpa Dorji Gyaljen, who marked his 23rd successful ascent.
Cool’s Mountaineering Legacy
Beyond his Everest achievements, Cool has completed over 45 notable expeditions in the Greater Ranges and became the first person to climb Nuptse, Everest, and Lhotse in a single push without returning to base camp. He has also led prominent figures, including British explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes, on several notable climbs.
Looking Ahead
Upon returning to Kathmandu, Cool expressed his intention to attempt a 20th ascent of Everest in 2026, stating, “I have at least one more climb for next year — maybe 20 or 21 total.” He also emphasized the importance of responsible participation in mountaineering, noting the increasing number of climbers attempting the summit simultaneously.
Context Within the Climbing Community
While Cool holds the record for non-Sherpa climbers, Nepali Sherpa guide Kami Rita remains the overall record-holder with 30 ascents of Mount Everest. The spring climbing season continues to attract hundreds of climbers aiming to reach the summit before the onset of the monsoon.
